Year: Circa 1962
Reference No: 95-704-542
Case No: No. 93
Model Name: Super Sub-Sea
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 95M, 17 jewels; further stamped with import code “MXI”

Founded in 1881 in La Chaux de Fonds, Movado established its reputation as a high-quality movement manufacturer, designing, testing and assembling their own movements under one roof. Following World War II, only a handful of brands could produce in-house movements, with most brands purchasing ébauches and finishing them to their specifications. Movado’s Sub-Sea model was the brand’s water-resistant chronograph wristwatch, using their C 95 M chronograph caliber. In the late 1950s and early 1960s, as brands were beginning to develop even more robust cases not just for leisurely sports activity, but for use as tools for scuba diving, Movado revealed the Super Sub-Sea with an upsized 40mm case, rotating bezel, and highly legible reverse panda dial with luminous hour markers. In period advertisements for the American market, it was referred to as the “Fat Watch”, celebrating the modular chronograph movement that increased its thickness and “gives your watch a stability that skinny watches don’t have.” A close look at this watch will reveal not a Movado signature on the dial, but the famed jewelry and watch maison Cartier. At the time, Movado headquarters in the United States was also located on Fifth Avenue, and boasted both Cartier and Tiffany & Co. as close neighbors – and many of their watches bear these illustrious retailer signatures on the dials as well. To complement the originality of this signature, the movement bears the U.S. import code for Movado, indicating that this watch was likely imported through Movado U.S.A. for an important client of Cartier. An oft-overlooked gem of mid-century tool watches, the present Super Sub-Sea is an extraordinary, fresh-to-the-market find. Purchased from the original owner by the consignor, it bears all the hallmarks of a highly desirable watch for those collectors for whom details matter: a prestigious retailer-signed dial, low production, the charismatic ‘kris’ hands unique to Movado chronographs, and well-preserved overall condition.